Cranberry, Pumpkin and Gingerbread Trifle – Vegan!

November 29, 2014


Made for Thanksgiving 2014


Best made the day before serving to allow flavors to blend.


For pumpkin sauce

1 can pureed pumpkin
1 2/3 cups almond milk
2 tbsp maple syrup
¼ cup brown sugar
3 tbsp corn starch
Pinch of salt

For cranberry sauce

¼ cup each brandy or rum and orange juice
1 tbsp cornstarch
2 12-oz bags fresh cranberries
Grated rind of one large orange, and juice from same
½ cup sugar (white or brown)

For gingerbread

1 box gingerbread mix (I used Hodson Mills whole wheat gingerbread)
1/4 cup canola oil
1 cup + 2tbsp water
1 cup raisins

For assembling the trifle and whipped coconut cream

½ cup brandy or rum
2 cans coconut milk (get one with few emulsifiers and additives, I like Thai brands)
¼ cup powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla
Grated rind of 2 limes and one lemon
2 tbs dried cranberries


Make the pumpkin sauce

Put all ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend/process until smooth. Pour into a sauce pan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to prevent mixture from scorching. When it comes to a boil, allow it to cook three minutes, then remove from heat. Pour/scrape mixture into a bowl and let cool to room temperature. When cooled, cover the mixture with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap down to touch the surface and then secure the edges of the plastic wrap to the sides of the bowl (this will prevent a “skin” from forming on top when the sauce cools). Place in the refrigerator for a few hours to let the mixture thicken up.

Make the cranberry sauce

Combine the rum or brandy and juice (both from the orange and additional orange juice) and dissolve the cornstarch in it. Mix all ingredients together (reserving 1 cup cranberries) in a large pan and cook over medium heat stirring occasionally until cranberries begin to pop open and mixture thickens. Stir in remaining cranberries and cook about 2 minutes more. Remove from heat and let cool.

Make the gingerbread

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine gingerbread, oil and water (or follow directions on your mix if not using Hodson Mills) stirring with a spoon or silicone spatula until all dry ingredients are mixed into wet (but do not over mix). Fold in raisins. Spray a 9 X 13 pan with nonstick spray and spread the mix into the pan so that it is one even layer. Bake about 25 minutes or until knife inserted into the cake comes out clean but cake is still soft. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack.

Make the whipped coconut cream

Open the cans of coconut milk and spoon off the thick coconut cream that rises to the top into a deep glass bowl. Reserve the clear remaining coconut “water” for other uses. Add powdered sugar and vanilla. Using an electric mixture (starting at slow speed and gradually increasing it to “whip”) and whip the coconut cream, scraping down the sides of the bowl frequently, until the cream holds soft peaks. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Assembling the trifle

When the gingerbread is cool cut it into approximately 1 ½ inch squares. Spray the bottom of a deep clear glass straight sided bowl (about 12” diameter) with non-stick spray. Distribute half the squares on the bottom of the bowl in a single layer, fitting the squares closely to fully cover the bottom. Sprinkle with half of the ½ cup rum or brandy over this layer of gingerbread. Spoon and spread evenly over this layer half of the pumpkin sauce. Spoon half the cranberry sauce on top of the pumpkin sauce spreading it evenly. Repeat gingerbread (don’t forget to sprinkle with brandy or rum), pumpkin sauce and cranberry sauce layers. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Final touches

The day you plan to serve the trifle, and up to four hours before serving it, spread the whipped coconut cream on top of the trifle, swirling the spatula on top to create some soft peaks. Combine grated lemon and lime rind and sprinkle on top. Scatter dried cranberries on top and serve with a large spoon.

© Lisa Pan, all rights reserved


Kaffir Lime Slice

November 11, 2013




/* Style Definitions */
{mso-style-name:”Table Normal”;
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;


In New Zealand, the bakeries carry a dessert known as a “slice.”  Basically, it is a a large, thin  sheet cookie with a layer of filling and then another thin layer of cookie on top.  The three layers are cut into squares.  The filling can be custard, fruit, curd, caramel, etc.  I often find the cookie layers just a little too dense and hard and the entire dessert a touch too sweet.  In Ashburton, however, I found an oatmeal-lemon “slice” that was delicious and decided to duplicate the recipe.  But then my wild imagination took off.  New Zealand is reasonably close to Asia and especially in urban areas, the Asian population is significant, if not substantial, in number.  Asian culinary ingredients are widely available (if expensive, as all food in New Zealand appears to be).   So I incorporated some Asian ingredients on hand to create this subtly spicy Kaffir Lime Oat Slice dessert.   Because I was using metric measures, my conversion to English measurements may not be entirely accurate, but this type of baking does not demand precision. The final product has a softer and more crumbly cookie base than most slices in New Zealand but accurately mimics the texture of the one I had in Ashburton.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

For the cookie dough

1 ½ cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup old fashioned oats

½ cup packed brown sugar

½ tsp cardamom

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp powdered ginger

½ tsp ground allspice

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

¼ tsp baking soda

¼ tsp salt

½ cup softened unsalted butter

½ cup raisins

2 tbs chopped citron


Mix together dry ingredients.  Cut the butter into pieces and then add to the dry ingredients.  Mix together using a mixer.  Mix in raising and chopped citron.  Mixture will be crumbly.  Pack 2/3 of the mixture into a greased 8” X 8” baking pan. Make sure that this bottom layer is level.  Bake for ten minutes


For the filling


Enough Kaffir or other limes to make ¼ cup fresh lime juice (I used about 6 small Kaffir limes)

1 14 oz can sweetened condensed milk

1 tsp freshly grated ginger

1 tsp minced fresh lemon grass


Use a microplane grater to grate the lime rind into a bowl.  Cut the limes in half and squeez e juice to make ¼ cup.  Blend Rind, juice, milk, ginger and lemon grass together.


After ten minutes of baking, take the baking pan out of the oven.  Spread the filling on top in an even layer to the edges of the pan.  Crumble the remaining oatmeal dough on top in an even layer, pressing it gently on top of the filling.  Return pan to the oven for 20 more minutes.  Turn off oven. Let it sit in the warm oven about 10-15 minutes more, or until the top layer feels quite firm to touch.  Remove from the oven, allow to cool completely and then cut into nine squares (two cuts in both directions).  Makes nine slices.  John loved this dessert.  I suspect when I get back from the gym tonight it will be all gone.


(c) all rights reserved.


The Halls of Montezuma – the Mexican Side of the Story

May 8, 2013


Most Americans are familiar with the opening line of the Marine Hymn “From the halls of Montezuma…,” which refers to the 1847 Battle of Chapultepec.  Two famous military men, better known for their roles in the U.S. Civil War (Robert E. Lee and George Pickett) played roles in the battle.   Although this was a victory for American forces, the Mexican side of the story  is the more poignant of the two.

In September 1847, American military forces attacked Chapultepec Castle, which guarded Mexico City to the west.  The castle sat atop a 200-foot (60 m) tall hill, which, in recent years, was being used as the Mexican Military Academy.  General Nicolas Bravo had fewer than 1,000 men  to hold the hill, including 200 cadets, some as young as 13 years old.  The castle itself was defended by only 400 men, including 100 cadets.

The Americans, under the command of General Winfield Scott, began an artillery barrage of the castle. Marines stormed the castle using over 50 tall ladders, and managed to erect an American flag above it.  General Nicolas Bravo ordered a retreat back to the City and was himself captured. 

Six military cadets aged 13-19 refused to fall back and fought to their death.  Legend has it that, rather than allow the Mexican flag to fall into enemy hands, the last surviving teenage cadet Juan Escutia, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and jumped off the castle wall to his death. 

The six cadets are known in Mexico as the “Ninos Heroes” or “Boy Heroes.”  There is an imposing monument to them in the entrance to Chapultepec park, and many streets and schools throughout Mexico are named after them, both collectively and individually.  At one time, they were also featured on the Mexican 5000 peso bank note.  A metro station in Mexico City is also named after them.  I am currently staying at a house between the streets named Colegio Military (Military Academy) and Heroes de 47 (Heroes of 1847).

On March 5, 1947, a few months before the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Chapultepec, U.S. President Harry Truman  placed a wreath at the monument and stood for a few moments of silent reverence. Asked by American reporters why he had gone to the monument, Truman said, “Brave men don’t belong to any one country. I respect bravery wherever I see it.”





Noches en La Paz

April 24, 2013


Back in my party days, my girlfriends and I would drive down from Washington State all the way to Baja to party all day and all night.  Typically, we hit the beach, take an afternoon siesta, have a late dinner, hit the clubs around 11:00 p.m, dance, drink and flirt till about 4 a.m., drag ourselves home catch a couple of snoozes and then hit the beach again.

Now I’m an old married woman and frankly this just isn’t very appealing anymore.  I can’t bounce back from hangovers like I used to, and the only dancing I do is in the zumba classes at the gym.  Besides, I had to remind myself that, although I am spending two months in paradise, I am still working (albeit reduced hours) via the magic of the internet and need to get up in the morning to participate in telephone conferences, write briefs, etc.  So how have we been spending our evenings?

Strolling the Malecon

La Paz has one of the most attractive Malecons (waterfronts) in all of Mexico.  The Malecon has a 20-ft wide paved walkway that stretches from the Cortez Marina in the southwest end extending approximately 5 km, all the way to Playa Coromuel Waterpark in the northeast end.  The first 3 km runs along Abasolo, the main drag.  On the non-water side of Abasolo are countless shops, mid-sized hotels (no mega resorts), restaurants, ice cream parlors, etc.  It seems like everyone walks the Malecon, especially at night, when who families stroll the length admiring the sunset, the public artwork, buy ice cream, rollerblade, ride bikes. Etc.  John and I have both walked and biked the Malecon at all hours of the day and it’s enjoyable anytime.  Weekends, you will also hear musicians playing and everyone just seems to be having a wonderful time.  Unlike Cabo and other “resort cities” there are no trinket vendors or time share salespeople constantly harassing you.  La Paz’s Malecon feels very authentically Mexican, and was clearly built with its own citizen in mind – tourists are a mere afterthought.  It’s a lovely place to catch the sunset, and I took the photo above from the Malecon at sunset.  We reward ourselves by getting an ice cream at La Fuente ice cream shot, or a gelato and Giulietta e Romeo, or a paleta (homemade ice cream bar, sometimes dipped in chocolate and rolled in nuts) at Casa Villa.  There are also parlors that sell bubble tea, frozen yogurt and smoothies, we just haven’t gotten to them yet!

Attending a guitar concert at an art gallery

My friend Judy, an American ex pat who lives in La Paz, graciously keeps me informed of, and invites me to all sorts of events.  A few weeks ago, we attended a lovely guitar concert at a local art gallery.  The guitarist played only music written by Latin American composers.  We sat outdoors in a courtyard under the stars below the canopy of a large tree.  During intermission, we looked at the art and purchased wine, coffee or tea.  The cost of the concert? 70 pesos, or less than $6 per person.  Varietal Spanish wine was less than $3 a glass.  It was chilly that night, but positively enjoyable.

ImageMovie at the community garden

Another night, we attended a free outdoor screening of Robert Redford’s documentary “Watershed” in one of three community gardens, just a few blocks off the Malecon.  We arrived before dark and toured the garden where Alex, Judy’s husband, shares a plot with a neighbor.  The park is full of whimsical murals, and even the water tank is brightly painted.

Image We munched on the sweetest cherry tomatoes, crunchy organically-grown carrots and jicama sprinkled with Tajin, a Mexican spice blend.  Various enterprising gardeners found ways to reuse all those discarded wine and beer bottles by inserting them into the dirt upside down around beds to use them as edging.  The movie itself was very informative, following eight communities in Colorado, New Mexico, California, Baja Norte and Sonora affected by the increased demands on water, the Colorado river compact and efforts to restore the delta.  One realizes how much we take water for granted and how precious it is.  Here in La Paz, the soccer fields are dirt because there simply isn’t enough water to maintain grass.  The arroyos are bone dry.  Baja Sur is one of the driest states in Mexico and depends on the Sierra Laguna for its water.  But 70 percent of the water is lost to evaporation, 15% ends up in the sea and only 15% makes it into the acquifer needed to supply the entire state.  Here in La Paz, the municipality turns off the water without warning and the pressure is so low, we fill our tinaca (water tank) by hand every other day.  Our drinking water is delivered in large bottles by truck.  Throughout the day, I hear the music from the various water companies and can now identify whether it’s the Coca Cola truck or another company.  Several days after seeing the film,  we drove down to Los Cabos and I cringed when I saw those lush green lawns and golf courses.

ImageHot Dogs!

One thinks of seafood tacos in La Paz, but hot dogs are also extremely popular.  This hot dog cart, Yapa, is just a few blocks from my house.  the owners originally just had a cart in front of their house but they became so popular, they set up indoor seating with a flat-screen TV, and serve other foods and drinks.  But it seems everyone comes for the hot dogs.  Pazcenos like their hot dogs wrapped in bacon, grilled and served on a toasty bun with onions (I like mine grilled rather than raw), jalapeno peppers, catsup (I hold the catsup), mustard and a drizzle of crema (mexican sour cream).  The best part, they only cost 10 pesos or about 80 cents U.S. The hot dog cart (and many in the city) is only open at night.


La Paz has its share of bars and clubs but is nothing like the insanity of Cabo.  We have actually only gone out at night to a bar once, and that was to the Tailhunter Fubar and Cantina, a popular sportsbar on the north end of the Malecon.  The owner, former California native Jonathan Roldan, also runs a sportfishing business.  We went there the night of the NCAA basketball championship game between Michigan and Louisville.  The game was on every screen in the bar.  The seats were filled mostly with gringos but it was not packed to the gills.  Great beers and a fun evening.

TV and movies at home

Mexico plays many Hollywood films at about the same time as in the US.  They are either in English with subtitles or dubbed in Spanish.  We don’t get the range of films seen in the U.S.  Most are action films of family-friendly films.  We haven’t gone to see a movie in a theatre yet, but there are plenty of multiplexes, just like in the States.  The house we are staying at has no TV.  We brought our computer monitor down with us and hook it up to the laptop.  Outside the US you can watch U.S. television on a website called It’s on an east coast schedule. We can watch network and basic cable for free. If we want to, we can pay a subscription for premium channels or DVR. But instead, we mostly watch netflix movies. We saw the entire series “House of Cards” with Kevin Spacey and are now watching “Mad Men.”

Other cultural events

There are plenty of other cultural events in La Paz. I’ve received email notices for the ballet “Peter and the wolf,” a classical piano concert, a concert with the state orchestra. Admission to none of these events costs more than $9. La Paz is also celebrating its “foundation days” in early May (it’s 478 years old) with concerts, food, parades). I’ve been told, however, that there are no touring broadway shows or semi-professional musical theatres here. Maybe time to found a company!

A trip to the Mexican hospital

April 15, 2013


Sunday, the temperatures were in the 70’s and we thought it would be nice to go mountain biking.  John researched on the web and found a mountain bike trail on the north end of town. It was rated “moderately technical” with maximum climbs of 780 ft.  Seemed relatively easy.  We rode our bikes along the bike lane on the Malecon (waterway) – about a 3- mi trip and then turned in land at the trail head.  There was a nice wide dirt road into the desert.  The first 1 km was ugly because people had dumped their trash there (obviously against the law).  But after the road turned to single track, we followed it up hill.  In places the trail was hard to navigate because of soft sand and gravel, but we learned that “moderately technical” must mean rocky single track flanked on either side but nasty looking cacti.  The track was narrow enough that a few times, I couldn’t walk my bike because my bike and I were too wide to avoid the cactus on the side of the road.



During the entire ride we saw only one other person, a hiker who was resting underneath a large rock outcropping.  Vultures circled overhead and I joked to Johnny that they must like Gringo white meat.  The trail was short (only about 3- mi) then we crossed an arroyo over to where the hiker was resting and caught up another trail back to the trail head.

This trail was very rocky in places and I got off my bike several times to navigate some scary-looking rocks.  But as I approached an area that appeared to flatten out and the trail began to widen, I got back on my bike.  Stupid mistake.  as I came down the hill, the trail cut sharply to the right, marked at the curve by a an 18″ metal spike, a boulder about 2′ high and several smaller boulders.  My back tire hit loose gravel and I skid and I lay down my bike.  Fearing impalement on that nasty-looking spike I jumped off the bike and fell smack onto the boulder striking  hard my left ribs, elbow and bending back my left index finger.

My first thought was Omigod, don’t let there be a rattle snake under this rock I just overturned because he is going to be very upset that I disturbed him.  Fortunately, no rattlesnake.  Then Omigod, I broke my arm and ribs – the searing pain!  The third thought, “hey I’m going to live, the vultures circling overhead have left the area!

John, who had ridden about 200 yards in front of me heard my screaming and cussing and ran back. After gasping for breath for about 5 minutes, I did manage to stand, but couldn’t get back on the bike. We were still two miles from the trail head and had no choice but to hike back. I managed to walk back to the road without assistance and John walked both bikes.

When we got to the road, we turned left, walked another 200 yards or so, and entered a hotel parking lot where a small taxi was waiting. The taxi was too small to take our bikes, so I got in alone and had him take me to the hospital. The driver told John he was taking me to Salvatierra hospital. He apparently managed to flag down a larger cab, but still had to take the bikes apart. The cab driver took him to our house where he unloaded the bikes and then he proceeded to the hospital.

Salvatierra (shown in the photo) is a very modern-looking newer hospital opened in 2010. When it opened, President Felipe Calderon called it the most modern hospital in all of Mexico. From the outside, it is certainly shiny and new. Inside however, it did not have the sterile squeaky-clean look of an American hospital. I found the emergency department. They took my name address and birth date off my passport and asked me what I wanted to be seen for. I was not asked to fill out form after form and no one asked me about insurance. Then, wonder of wonders, after giving my information they IMMEDIATELY took me inside to an exam room and within one minute a young doctor came in to examine me. While waiting I looked around. The room had two examining tables but neither had paper on them (that would normally be changed between patients). I thought about my bike shorts that had been rolling in the desert dirt half an hour ago sitting on the table and the poor patient who would follow me, as well as wondering who had been there before me. There were overhead tracks for privacy curtains, but no curtains. There were two sinks, one of which had a prominent sign in Spanish “Do not use for washing your hands.” The other sink had no such sign so I assumed it would be okay to use it to wash my hands. There was liquid soap dispenser and paper towels but only the cold water work. Gee, I thought, I sure hope I don’t need surgery.

The doctor came in and was friendly and introduced herself by her first name. She examined me and asked the right questions. We communicated in Spanish, but I suspected she could speak English too. She then referred me for X-rays. The x-ray technician came by within 2 minutes and escorted me to the radiology department. Again, no paper or other protective covering on the examining x-ray table. There was a glassed in window from which I could see where he operated the machine and a computer screen to view the x-rays. He x-rayed my arm from two angles and my ribs. I was not given a lead apron to protect any areas not being x-rayed. I saw him take the films into the next room and through the window could see him and presumably a radiologist looking at them on the computer. Then he came back into the room and escorted me back to the exam room where he handed the films to the ER doctor. She put them up on the viewing panel and showed me that I had no broken bones or fractures. A nurse came into to wrap and immobilize my elbow, which has swollen to twice its size. I had an abrasion on my knee but the doctor told me I did not need a tetanus shot, as I did not cut myself on any metal. She gave me a prescription for extra-strength Ibuprofen, handed me my x-rays to keep, and said I would be fine in a few days. My discharge papers did not contain any diagnosis or instructions for follow up treatment. But here’s the great part: the medical exam and consult, three x-rays and patch up cost me only $59. In the states I probably would have paid several thousand dollars and for the privilege of waiting for five or six hours to be seen for a total of 15 minutes. Salvatierra had me in and out in 45 minutes. I was discharged five minutes after John arrived.

Random thoughts on living in La Paz

April 12, 2013


Now that we’ve settled in in La Paz for over two weeks, I thought I’d share some random observations and thoughts with you.  I’ve learned it takes at least two weeks before you stop feeling like a tourist and more like a temporary resident.

Weather – currently very nice. When we arrived, day time temps were in the 90’s, cooling into the 60’s at night.  No need for AC at night.  It’s actually cooled down over the last week to the 70’s or 80’s in the day and into the low 60’s or high 50’s at night.  Typically in the afternoons, a steady breeze rustles through the palm trees and it quickly cools down.   I sleep with the windows open and actually need more than one blanket.  I’ve been told the hot weather we initially experienced was atypical of late March early April, and what we have now is much more typical.  It will steadily heat up again in the day time and by May we will need AC, even at night.  No rain likely for the remainder of our stay (late May).  Water temps are still too cold to comfortably swim except in the shallowest of beaches.

Dust everywhere  This is the desert and there hasn’t been any rain since we cross Mexico in late March.  Main roads are paved, but even just a few blocks from a main road the road becomes dirt.  We are staying in a very nice neighborhood but even though it’s only two blocks from the main thoroughfare through town, the road is dusty dirt.  We found a great hand-wash a few blocks away for about $6.50 the car is spotless and shiny inside out; but within a block after we leave, it’s dirty again. 


Driving The Baja California Sur drivers are not particularly bad, compared to those in some countries I’ve been to (e.g. Italy, the Philippines, Egypt).  They are not overly aggressive and rarely honk their horns.  They tend to stay on their side of the road and don’t cut you off.  They do practice the so-called Baja California rolling stop.  There are stop signs everywhere, sometimes misplaced 20 yards back from the intersection, or not at an intersection at all (even though they say “4 altos”), or on the wrong side of the street.  We have learned that stop signs are merely a “suggestion.”  If someone stops at a stop sign, he/she is probably a gringo/gringa.  Pazcenos just roll slowly through a controlled intersection and maybe will yield the right of way to whomever gets there first.   There are also plenty of speed bumps or fake bumps painted in the road to make you slow down. some are wickedly high and you have to take them at an angle about 2 mph or you will knock your muffler off. There are many one-way streets, not always marked that way, you have to check which way the cars are parked and whether there are any signs facing the direction you want to go.  Also, once you get a few blocks inland from the waterfront, there are no street signs at all.  Most homes and businesses don’t refer to their house numbers.  Addresses state the street name and the two closest side streets.  We can drive at night in the City but don’t go between towns at night.  This isn’t because of crime (it is incredibly safe) but because the land around the highway is unfenced and cows like to sit on the road at night because it retains the heat.  If you hit a cow, the cow will probably win.

Safety We have felt very safe in Baja California.  We lock our doors of course and don’t leave valuables in plain sight.  But violent crime is pretty  nonexistent down here.   Walking down the Malecon (waterfront) you are probably more likely to be run over by a toddler on her tricycle than mugged.  In Loreto, we stayed in a hotel right on the main plaza.  The front door to our room opened right onto a patio on the main plaza.  The door had a single key and was made of wood and had a glass window.  We were never afraid of being robbed or burglarized.

Cost of living   Baja California is an “island” bordered by the U.S. to the north and separated from the “mainland” of Mexico to the east by the Sea of Cortez.  Produce is locally grown and costs anywhere from 60-80% what we pay in Alta California but the quality is infinitely superior.  Tomatoes are always ripe and flavorful.  Avocados buttery and smooth.  Seafood is very fresh but not cheap .  Bread is very good and very cheap.  A large freshly-baked sandwich roll costs about $.15.  A artisan demi-baguette will set you back $.60.  A huge capuccino muffin costs $.60. Everything else is shipped in from the U.S., China, or the mainland. Packaged goods cost what they cost in the U.S.  Dairy is much more expensive that in the U.S.  A gallon of milk will run over $4 and if you want non-fat it will be over $6.  Labor costs are cheaper and you can get a good meal at a taco stand for about $1.50 a taco with all the trimmings.  A car wash (by hand inside and out) costs $6.50.   Two large loads of laundry – wash, dry and fold costs $8.  A fill at the local nail salon costs $17 (about what I pay in California).  Gas is sold by Pemex, the government-owned petroleum company and costs slightly less than in the U.S.  A friend went to a retinal surgeon for a consult and to have some stitches taken out and a prescription and he charged her $50.  The medicines he prescribed, purchased at the local pharmacy, however, cost $60.  Many prescription meds (not antibiotics or controlled prescriptions) can be purchased over the counter.  Prescription meds, if available here, cost about 80% what they cost in the state.  Generics, however, sometimes cost the same or more.  No giant Costco bottles of allergy medicine at volume discount.  The same medication here will be sold in small packets of 28-30 pills and the per pill cost is almost identical.  I don’t know how the average Mexican (who makes about $20 a day) can afford to live here. 

For us, the big savings is rent.  We are staying in a furnished 600 sq ft two-story casita with 2 BR and 2 BA, a fully equipped kitchen and living room and a 300 sq ft covered patio with dining area, living area and bar overlooking the swimming pool.  We pay $650 for the month, which includes utilities and drinking water.  We pay an extra $16 a week for the housekeeper.

Inconveniences   We take so much for granted in the States.  No, you cannot drink the water out of the tap.  We have large jugs of drinking water delivered and go through approximately one jug a week.  I do use tap water to brush my teeth and wash my fruits and vegetables in it (with white vinegar added to the washing water to act as a disinfectant).  I boil pasta, rice in purified water and because water is so scarce, actually save the water and reuse it (for example, left over pasta water was used to cook dried beans). The City often shuts the municipal water off with no warning, so we have a back-up tank for these emergencies, which we have had to resort to twice.  When the back-up tank runs out, we refill it by hand from our landlady’s tank.  Water pressure is very low here and it can take a long time for the water to heat up, but we do have hot water.  Many people don’t have that luxury.  Sharon, our landlady, lets us use her clothes washer.  She doesn’t have a dryer.  We hang our clothes out to dry on a clothesline.  It’s so hot and dry here that mid day, clothes will dry within two hours.  But they come out stiff and scratchy.  Now I know why Latinos love fabric softener.  We wash and dry our clothes this way, but take our sheets and towels to a small family-run laundry down the street.  They charge us $8 to wash, dry and fold two large loads. The sheets and towels come back nice and soft.  Credit cards are widely accepted in Mexico except at smaller businesses and restaurants.  We try to use our credit card as much as possible. First, because we get a better exchange rate than withdrawing cash a the ATM, and Capital One doesn’t charge a foreign transaction fee.  If we have to withdraw cash, the maximum we can withdraw is the equivalent of $300/day and Banemx charges us  about $2.20 and Wells Fargo charges us $3.  The exchange rate is slightly more than 12 pesos to a dollar.  Plumbing in Mexico is better than it was when I used to come down 30 years ago, but in most places, you still can’t throw the toilet paper in the toilet.    Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon, especially on certain days, to smell an unpleasant sewer smell, especially near Walmart (How’s that for poetic justice?). Internet Service is slow, especially in the late afternoon, and things do not run as efficiently as they do in the States.  Nonetheless, the slower-paced life is part of Mexico’s charm.

Some other random observations  I’ve seen very few smokers, and most of them have been crusty old gringos.  Electricity is expensive so most of the light bulbs are compact fluorescent.  Watching the national Mexican news, there was a small box in the lower right hand corner of the screen with a sign language interpreter also delivering the news.   There are recycling bins throughout the public areas labeled “organico” and “inorganico”, but no one seems to really use them properly.  There is no curbside recycling and I haven’t found a place where I can schlepp and drop off paper, cans, bottles, etc.  Watch where you walk at all times.  Sidewalks are uneven and the water meter wells are frequently exposed.  You will definitely trip and fall into a hole if you don’t look where you are going.  The Mexican military takes tourism seriously.  On busy weekends (e.g. Easter weekend), fully armed (assault rifles) and uniformed soldiers will patrol the beach and tourist areas.  We have never been stopped by a cop and asked to pay a mordida.   There were lots of military inspections on the way down but the soldiers were courteous and helpful, even giving us sightseeing recommendations.  The Mexican people are warm, friendly and generous. 


La Paz is a beautiful medium-sized City with lovely beaches nearby and lots of tourist activities but it does not feel like a tourist town. Mexican tourists outnumber gringos. There are no loud bars blasting rock music and we do not see drunk gringos in the street like you see in Cabo. Other than some boat operators who will approach you to see if you want to go fishing or to Isla Espiritu Santo to see the sea lions and swim with the whale sharks, you will not be pestered by timeshare operators, souvenir sales people or the like. The town has a family feel and in most places Mexicans far outnumber gringos. Nonetheless, there is a sizeable ex pat gringo population here, many from Oregon – I’m not sure why.

La Paz!

March 29, 2013


After driving over 1000 miles, we reached our “home base” of La Paz, BCS for the next seven weeks.  Our first home (for approximately 5 weeks) is Casita McAllister, an adorable casita on the outskirts of the center of town.  Lovely Spanish tile everywhere and a fully stocked kitchen.  Our host, Sharon, is a sweetheart.  A former Oregonian who has been living in La Paz for ten years.  Tiffy, the resident gato also keeps us company. Our first day Tiffy was very friendly (or maybe a guard cat), following us everywhere and sitting next to me while I worked on my computer.  ImageOnce we found him napping in the bathroom sink.

We’re just 3 blocks from the beach, nice for walks but there are much nicer swimming beaches just outside of town.  But a nice view during the morning stroll.

13-03-17 la paz 00213-03-17 la paz 001

The seagulls were squawking as we strolled on the beach this morning, and all I could think of was “Finding Nemo” – “mine, mine, mine!” Went grocery shopping a few days ago (see previous post) and am thrilled that I get to cook again. Here’s today’s lunch, supplemented by yummy German Chocolate brownies Sharon shared with us (she bakes and sells her pastries at the Saturday gourmet market).

13-03-17 la paz 003

Time to cook!

March 27, 2013


Okay the serious cook in me wants to hit the fish market, bakeries, produce markets, etc.  But on day one it was simply time to go to the supermercado to stock up and check out the prices.  Here’s a sample of what I bought today at Chedraui Supermercado, just two blocks from where we are staying in La Paz for the next five weeks.

700 ml tequila  $6.75

Bottle of Italian red wine  $7.84

Combo pack EVOO and wine vinegar  $7.48

Bar of bath soap (palmolive) $.76

1 quart bleach  $.60

Demiloaf artisan onion bread  $.66

Loaf of multigrain bread (Pan Bimbo) $1.72

6 handmade flour tortillas $.98

6 oz Di Giorno shredded parmesan cheese $5.29

Gallon fresh-squeezed OJ (unpasteurized) $8.13

½ gallon low fat milk $2.60

1 ½ dozen eggs  $2.84

Haas avocados $.78/pound

Jalapeno peppers $.64/pound

Roma tomatoes $.40/pound

Manila mangoes $1/pound

Bananas $.42/pound

Strawberries  $2.09/quart

Boneless chicken breast $2.59/pound

Medium shrimp heads off, shell on  $4.40/pound

Marinated flank steak  $6/pound

Here’s my kitchen.  Looking forward to start cooking!



March 27, 2013


Okay, I could die today and be happy.  We booked the whale-watching tour to Laguna Ojo Liebre (Jackrabbit-eye Lagoon), a 45 minute drive across the salt flats of Guerrero Negro.  We were loaded up in a small panga (12 to a boat). Accompanying us was the six-year old adorable daughter of the captain, who goes out with her Daddy whenever she’s not in school.  She knows whales by name and calls to them and they come to the boat.  They seem to love children. 

The grey whales come to the Baja coast (Pacific side) every winter to give birth in the Laguna, Bay of San Ignacio and Magdalena bay.  They spend the winter there, with the strongest adults guarding the narrow entrance to keep predators out. In the spring, the adults form a circle around the babies and they take the long swim north where they spend their summers, then they repeat the cycle the following fall, returning to Mexico. 

Marine biologists estimate approximately 700 whales in Laguna Ojo Liebre this year and we must have seen about 50-60, mostly in the distance, spouting, surfacing and twice breaching.  About 2/3 of the way into our venture into the Bay four whales (three adults and a baby) came up along side our boat and the accompanying boat.  They were curious and surfaced, lifting their heads up, and let us pet them.  Mama playfully splashed us and then spouted water all over me.  Three dolphins accompanied them, though the dolphins never lifted their heads out of the water.  The whales hung around our boat for about 1/2 hour.  After they had enough of head petting and belly rubbing (just like cats) they turned and swam off in the distance, spouting.  The highlight of our Baja trip thus far!

After the whale watching trip, we briefly toured the saltworks, the largest exporter of salt in the world. While driving on the hard packed dirt road, this huge critter blocked our path and stared us down.tarantula web

I was thrilled and got down low to the ground to take this photo, my companions, including the recent Italian marine biology graduate were not as thrilled. Our driver swerved around “pepe” and we were on our way. We checked out of the hotel late and crossed the desert for the Sea of Cortez coast.

As we approached the coast we gingerly drove down the very scary Pie de La Cuesta, the steep road hugging the mountain side with few guardrails on the downhill side and what appeared to be sheer drops of thousands of feet. Luckily, we were on the uphill side of the mountain, but I am already dreading the return trip when we will be on the downhill side while large 18 wheelers barrel toward us in the opposite direction. The view was spectacular until ugly Santa Rosalia came into view. An old mining town full of abandoned equipment an old quarry serves as the town dump, this is as ugly as it gets. 30 years ago, when I drove the Baja with some Mexican friends, we actually overnighted in Santa Rosalia. We must have gotten in after dark because I never would have agreed to stop there otherwise.

We blew through town and continued on to the river oasis town of Mulege. Still tiny. We couldn’t find the B&B by the river because the usual road was still washed out from the flood several years ago and settled on my second choice – La Serenidad outside of town. This was probably once quite the hotspot, with celebrities jetting in on the private airstrip just outside the hotel gate. But the grand dame shows a lot of wear. The hotel is reminiscent of an old hacienda, with low slung white-washed adobe brick buildings, expansive patios and plenty of rustic Mexican charm. But the bathroom was scary. The hotel made up for its somewhat with its famous Saturday pig roast. It was sad to see so few guests though, where once this place was probably hopping with rowdy partiers hurling shots of tequila while the Mariachis sang in the background.

Crossing the Desert.

March 25, 2013



What a difference another day makes!  We woke up early and took our mountain bikes along the back dirt road to El Molino Viejo, an old 19th Century granary that had been converted to a restaurant/bar decades ago, and is now a popular hangout for hunters and fishermen/women.  The restaurant sits right on San Quentin Bay by the public boat launch.  It was very quiet there.  Only one other family, also from California, was visiting for breakfast. Like us, they had driven down the peninsula, but they were on their way back.  They had two young children in tow, who had learned to speak some basic Spanish, such as asking the waiters for a glass of milk.Image

After a delicious Mexican breakfast, we road our bikes back to Jardines Baja.  A portion of the road was pure sand and it was very difficult maneuvering through it.  In a heavy rain, this road would be completely impassable except for the hardiest of 4-wheel drive vehicles.

We packed our car and said goodbye to friendly clerk Fernando (after a sharing with him a cup of Peet’s coffee, which we had brought down from California and made in the hotel communal coffee pot) and hit the road for the long drive through the Baja desert.  After gassing up in the outpost of El Rosario, the landscape changed dramatically to true desert.  We entered the Valle de Cirios, dominated by rock formations, strange looking Cirrio Cacti and the more familiar Cardon and fuzzy cholla cacti we remembered from our days in Arizona.  We stopped briefly in the halfway town of Catavina (really just four buildings) bought some fresh squeezed OJ, used the really scary-looking restrooms, and then continued on our way to the Pacific town of Guerrero Negro, famous for its saltworks and the grey whales that winter there to give birth in the Laguna de Ojo Liebre.

We checked into the Motel Cowboy (clean, very basic rooms with fuzzy TV and unpredictable internet – worked for me, did not work for John) and had a delicious dinner at the hole in the wall Asadero in the complex.  John and I had eight gorditas (tortillas stuffed with meat with plenty of toppings including guacamole, radishes, salsa and chopped cabbage) and cowboy beans for $12.   Across the street John found heaven in the form of a real espresso bar (but no non-fat milk), where we both had lattes and chocolate mousse cake.  We returned to the hotel and booked a whale-watching tour for the next day and hit the sack early.